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Tailoring · 9 min read

How to recognize quality in a wool blazer

Roll the lapel between your fingers, look at the pattern match across the shoulder, check whether the canvas floats.

A good blazer is built from the inside. A floating canvas moves with the chest; fused interlining glues the front flat and eventually bubbles.

Look at the pattern across the shoulder seam and along the pockets. Matched pattern costs cloth, and cloth is where corners are cut first.

Then check the armhole. High and small means movement; low and wide means the pattern was made to fit everyone and therefore no one.

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